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Mauritius Fishing Trip 2005.
October 2005
20 October 2005
Getting ready for the trip to some islands in the Indian
Ocean. Visited Ricko at Flyfishers Unlimited and picked up a bunch of
flies, tippet material, sunglasses, goggles, etc. Quickly spent several
thousand Rand - its amazing how one can dispose of money when you walk
into that shop! Left a reel for Ricko to sell. Perhaps I can get some of
my money back.
20:20 Got to the airport and met with some of the guys.
Everyone was very excited, had far too much luggage, shirts were changing
hands and foreign currency was handed around. Lots of discussions on
techniques, catching sailfish, tying knots and a recent visit to
Argentina. We were eight people - Gerrit Nel, Nick Hadjiphanis, Brian
Reineer, Heini Rietmann, Raymond Kritzinger, Hanno Vlok and Raymond Moore.
The flight to Mauritius was short - around 3½ hours.
For dinner we had a choice of chicken breasts or fish and I went for the
former, assuming that I would be eating lots of fish in the days to come.
Some of the guys were in party mood and had obviously started drinking
very early in the day. At least one of our party was loud, obscene, rude
and offensive and I was surprised that he wasn't dealt with by the
airline crew. Several passengers objected to his obscenities but to no
avail. I plugged in my Ipod, switched to Jimmy Buffett and turned up the
volume. I tried to get some sleep in but it was difficult with all the
swearing and shouting. Not a good start to the trip!
Got
to Mauritius before sunrise and the airport was quiet, yet well organized.
Every passport station was manned by a friendly efficient person. The
party animals were still very loud, lots of profanity, and some of us
sneaked ahead. One tube of rods went missing and we had to wait for a
while to see whether it could be traced.
The drive from the airport to the harbour took about 30 minutes in a 12
seater Toyota bus. The buildings on the outskirts looked unfinished -
raw concrete and desperately in need of paint. It was an overcast day,
around 22 °C and a bit windy. We were going to have to hang around for
most of the morning. Two of the guys were not well - too much booze! One
of them collapsed while walking from the taxi to the boat and his drinking
partner helped him along. They both passed out on one of the boats before
we headed to the waterfront for breakfast. The taxi ride cost about R20.
Most of us had an English breakfast with cappuccino - the coffee costing
as much as the breakfast! The group split up and some of us went grocery
shopping - some chocolates and energy bars. We headed back to the
harbour and had a long wait. Bought myself a bread roll with beef at a
local canteen.
The
boat that was supposed to take us to our islands had broken down a few
days back and we got a real old donkey. (See picture on right). No beds
and very slow! We started off at 14:00 and it was an incredibly long
journey. We had mattresses, no pillows and I slept on top of the engine
compartment hatches with diesel fumes billowing out at times. I wasn't
feeling well for most of the trip and barely got up. I tried to listen to
my Ipod but the motors were noisy and people regularly stood on me or
tripped over me.
Gerrit put a lure out and it wasn't very long before a Dorado took it.
Geelslang (Raymond Kritzinger) tried to reel it in but never really gained
any line until he snapped the rod! Didn't get much sleep and was glad to
see the sun come up the next morning. We were slightly more than halfway!
We got to our destination after sunset and there were two smaller boats
waiting for us. Our accommodation was great with two in a room and cold
showers. I could smell fish cooking. At this stage I should mention that
as the venue was so incredibly good, the very best saltwater fly-fishing
that most of us had ever experienced, I am not going to mention the exact
locality of where we went.
Dinner consisted of fish steaks that looked like massive cuta steaks and
potatoes. Communication was a bit of a problem with Dogman (Heini)
speaking a little French. The fish was overcooked yet tasty. Everyone
settled down quite early, sorted out fishing gear and was planning the
next day.
22 October 2005
Woke
up at about 06:00 and the guys were frantically sorting out tackle. Nick
(my room mate) was amazing - he had the most tackle and gadgets that I
have ever seen! We were heading for quite a large island, hoping to catch
some bonefish. Some of the guys were throwing a few casts just outside the
house and quickly got into some Wave Garrick. Breakfast consisted of
cereals, bacon, pork sausages, very soft scrambled eggs and toast. (see
picture on left)
We headed off to the island in two boats. The area looked great with
crystal clear water no more than 1.2 m deep and eventually getting deeper
with darker spots. We spread out and in no time the guys got into some
Wave Garrick, Trigger fish and some other rats and mice. We had asked the
guides about Bonefish and even showed them some pictures but they were not
familiar with them. I got a strange elongate fish that looked like some
sort of Pike on a Crazy Charlie. I then got smashed up very quickly by
what I thought was a Bonefish. I then got a nice Bonefish, probably around
4 lb, and dragged it off to show the guys and the guides. Everyone was
very excited and the guides said that they know the fish well and call it
Banana fish. They also made it quite clear that they never fished for
Banana fish as they had lots of bones. The whole fly-fishing thing puzzled
the guides and they couldn't understand that we hooked fish, brought
them in and then released them!
Gerrit
got a nice Kingfish and a very big Bone fish, bigger than anything I have
ever seen.
We got back to the house at about 13:00 and had a lunch consisting of
dried fish, rice and lentils. Some of the guys went out with the boats but
I stayed behind with Geelslang and headed for a channel. We got lots of
Wave Garrick and saw a few sharks. We decided to head across the channel
by boat to fish a drop-off with the wind from behind. I got two small
Kingys on a Clauser. We got back to the house at sunset and everyone had a
good day. Geelslang broke a rod earlier and Rinkhals (Raymond Moore) spent
much of his time changing lines.
Gerrit
and the rest of the guys on the boat got a large Bourbonne - a Rock
cod-like fish that weighed in at about 8 kg. Nick made some sushi -
awesome!
Dinner was chicken and chips with red wine - really good. We managed to
get to bed by 22:00 but Nick, as could be expected, was still gearing up
for the next day and needed another hour or two! (See picture on left)
23 October 2005
Up at 06:00 but heard Geelslang scratching around before 05:00 wherafter
he headed for the drop-off for Kingys. We had some cereal, toast and fruit
and geared up for the next island. Geelslang got a few small Kingys and
the usual quota of Wave Garrick. In fact, Wave Garrick were becoming a
real problem and at times you couldn't leave your fly in the water for
more than a few seconds without getting a Wave Garrick on the other end!
The trip to the island took more than one hour by boat. We headed for the
lea side of the wind and waded about chest deep. The fishing wasn't
quick but productive. A few of the guys got Bonefish and lots of small
Kingys. I got into three nice fish that took me into the backing and
snapped off quickly. Nick got into a very nice Barracuda and had it on for
at least 15 minutes before it snapped off. It leapt into the air several
times. At 11:30 we decided to head for the next island where the guides
claimed we would get Bonefish.
This island is surrounded by sand flats and looked great for Bonefish. The
second boat didn't even get to us - they saw some nice sand flats
about a kilometer from the island and started fishing right there. Both
Geelslang and Brian were into Bonefish before I had my second cast. We
were using Clausers, Crazy Charlies and Permit flies and everything
worked! All of us got into Bonefish and some beautiful specimens were
landed - by far the largest Bonefish that I had ever seen. Some of the
fish had us into the backing in seconds. Bonefish are still king when it
comes to fly-fishing. I was using my 9 weight Thomas and Thomas and a Ross
reel. The Ross had a faulty braking system but Nick fixed it the previous
evening.
We
eventually caught up with the other guys and got some food from them.
Needless to say, everyone had lots and lots of fishing stories to tell.
The boat trip back to the house took about 1½ hours and we were all
tired. Back at the house everyone unpacked and relaxed. Some of us went to
the drop-off with spoons but nothing. It was a magnificent day - some
amazing fly-fishing. Between the 8 of us we landed more than 200 decent
Bonefish - it is extremely unlikely that we will ever repeat the day
again. Awesome awesome fishing and without doubt the finest Bone fishing
in the world!
24 October 2005
First guys up at 05:00 and they quickly woke up the rest of us. Gerrit and
Rinkhals had some serious discussions until the early hours of the
morning, discussing the day's Bone fishing, then repeating the same
story! Then a quick drink and the same story again. We didn't get much
sleep and they didn't seem to need it!
We had a good, hot breakfast - bacon, fried eggs, sausages and toast and
then headed off for some flats not too far from the house. Apparently a
good spot for Capitano. We waded into knee-deep water and I was casting a
white Clauser. I spotted a nice sized fish, casted about two meters away
from it and it changed direction immediately and took my fly. It had me
into the backing a few times. It turned out to be quite a nice GT, my
first decent Kingfish on the trip. Everyone headed further out onto the
flats. Rinkhals was still drenched - he took a tumble when he got off
the boat and was totally submerged, disappearing for a second or two!
Some
of the guys got Bonefish but the spot was not very productive. We went
back to the boat and headed for the previous Bonefish spot, about one hour
away. It was overcast, quite dark and rainy. The trip took more than an
hour and some of us got very wet. The ride was very bumpy.
We got onto the flats and the wind was pumping. I took my camera and some
of the guys were into nice Bonefish in no time, sight casting to
individual fish. I wanted to return to the boat to get my gear and
Polaroid glasses but the boat was gone. They went fishing for the pot and
only got back about an hour later. Some really nice Bonefish were coming
out and at times three to four guys would be hooked up at the same time. I
eventually got my gear and quickly hooked a beautiful Bonefish. Heini took
some pics. Gerrit and Nick headed for the drop-off on the northern side
where they threw some monster flies at GT's. I got into some Pompano and
although they were small, they were fun to catch. The GT guys saw two very
big Kingfish but got nothing. The boat trip back was wet and painful - a
bumpy ride. They really need to get some cushions.
Dinner was magnificent - fresh fish fillets with some sort of yam and
fresh salad. The guys sat around reminiscing and discussing strategy for
the next day. Gerrit and Nick were keen on dragging teasers and throwing
big flies over reefs while others chose the sand flats.
25 October 2005
Another early morning, bacon, sausages and scrambled eggs and in the boats
by 08:00. We had to wait a while for our skippers and then needed to
refuel. We returned to the spot that we fished the first day. As we
approached along the shoreline we saw rows of big Bonefish.
Everyone spread out quickly and a few nice Bonefish were hooked. Lots of
Wave Garrick, Pompano and Blue fin Kingfish while Brian landed a nice GT.
Hein got smashed up several times and Nick got the fish of the trip - a
26 lb GT! (See picture on left)
Did some exploring on the island and saw some wild chickens. They ran like
crazy! Also saw a Tropical House Gecko (Hemidactylus sp.) amongst
some old buildings. And lots of wild cotton. We packed up at 15:00 and
headed home.
Some of the guys took their fly rods and surf rods with plugs to the
drop-off but no joy. Hanno rigged up a live bait and put out a Blue fin
Kingfish and was smashed up. I spent most of the afternoon photographing
birds, many of them on eggs or with chicks.
Dinner was spicy rice and Bourbonne cooked with tomatoes and mushrooms -
another fantastic meal. Most of the guys were tired and quick to get to
bed - some by 20:00!
26 October 2005
Up at about 06:00. Geelslang was wandering around at 02:00 with a candle,
making coffee and waking up the rest of us. He needs help! We had cereal
and toast for breakfast and headed off
to another island. I went in the big boat and the ride was much nicer than
in the other one. I was first off the boat when we got there and hooked a
nice Kingy with my first cast. Then a few Bonefish and a nice GT - its
stomach was bitten open by a shark as I was about to land it. Then a few
more Kingys and I got a Golden Kingfish which turned out to be the fish of
the day. Everyone had a good time, hooked lots of fish and some really
nice Bonefish. (See picture on right)
Both Geelslang and Heini had large Bonefish chopped in half by sharks. The
piece that Heini recovered weighed 5 lb!
The
sight-fishing was awesome and I fished with Heini and Rinkhals for quite a
while. Lots and lots of beautiful Bonefish. I used a white Clauser most
the time - it wasn't great for Bonefish but attracted the attention of
the Kingys. I was, like previous days, using my 9 weight T & T with
the Ross reel and as the fish were not tippet shy, used 20 or 22 lb
tippet. The 15 lb fluorocarbon snapped far too easily. We were often
surrounded by sharks and Hanno counted over 20 at one time. We headed home
at 15:00 and everyone had a great day. Again the very best fly-fishing
ever for me.
Dinner consisted of potato mash and fillet steak - very good food.
Gerrit and I got involved in a philosophical discussion and we were in bed
by 22:00.
27 October 2005
Up at 06:00 and another continental breakfast. Heading for an island about
2 hours north where there are (apparently) some very big Kingys. Brian has
been there before and found it quite depressing. The island is a weather
station and some fish are also dried there. It was far from impressive
when we got there. I was using my 12 weight custom made 3 piece and the
Abel reel for the first time. I walked into some waves and quickly got a
Blue fin Kingy but very little action otherwise. Saw Geelslang getting
drenched by a big wave!
Nobody got anything worthwhile but spotted some big Kingys. I gave it
another bash and got another Blue fin Kingy. We decided to head for the
sand flats and fish for Bonefish - a 45 minute
ride. Both Rinkhals and I went with Hanno to a spot on the wild side where
he saw lots of Bonefish the previous time. They managed to get some nice
fish but I was struggling. I put a Clauser through a school of Bonefish
but nothing! Changed to a Charlie but still nothing! I then walked over to
the opposite end of an island where Heini and Gerrit were into some nice
Bonefish. I spotted a really nice fish, casted a Clauser about half a
meter from it and it took the fly the moment I started my retrieve. Had a
good fight and enjoyed fishing the 12 weight. (See picture on the right).
We were home by 15:00 and had an early evening. I knocked some Tropical
House Geckos off the walls to amuse the guys - they had a good laugh.
28 October 2005

Back to Mauritius on the slow boats - another awful ride. We stayed over
in Port Louis for a night before flying back home the following day. The
guys spread out - some went shopping but I chose to go for a back
massage and it was very good. It was a very special fly-fishing trip and
will go down as one of the ultimate trips of my life.
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